Troubleshooting Error Codes on a Whirlpool Washer Combo

If you own a Whirlpool stackable washer combo and have encountered issues where the washer won’t start and the rinse light blinks continuously, this guide is for you. Drawing from hands-on experience with the Whirlpool model WET4027HW2, I’ll walk you through how to enter diagnostic mode, interpret error codes, through a systematic troubleshooting approach, and get that washer cleaning clothes again!

Download the compatible tech sheet for this model here

Whirlpool WTW4816FW3 Washer Tech Sheet - W11349355 - Rev A.pdf

Download PDF • 2.96MB

Entering Diagnostic Mode and Reading Error Codes

The first step in troubleshooting your Whirlpool washer combo is to access its diagnostic mode. This allows you to retrieve error codes that point to specific issues. To do this, use a specific sequence on the cycle knob—turning it until all the lights on the control panel begin flashing. This confirms you’ve successfully entered diagnostic mode.

Once in diagnostic mode, turn the cycle knob one click to the right to view the “air codes.” Press the start button to enable these error codes to appear. The codes flash quickly but repeat in a sequence. It’s helpful to write down the patterns to ensure accuracy.

The error codes are displayed via a combination of LEDs. The “sense fill” LED indicates a letter: if it’s lit, it represents “F,” and if it’s off, it represents “E.” The other LEDs correspond to binary values for different stages of the washing cycle:

• Wash = 8

• Rinse = 4

• Drain = 2

• Done = 1

Add the values of the lit LEDs to get a number. For example, if wash, rinse, and drain LEDs are lit, you add 8 + 4 + 2 = 14, but in this model, the combination used is different. In the example I encountered, the first code was F7, meaning the sense fill LED was lit (F) and the total binary LED value was 7 (wash + rinse + drain LEDs lit).

The second code showed the sense fill LED off (E) with a binary total of 7, making the second code E7. Together, these form the first air code: F7 E7. This code indicates the motor is unable to reach the target RPM.

As you continue turning the knob, you might see additional codes, such as F7 E1. The final code in my case was just a single blink on the sense fill LED, indicating the end of the air codes.

If you need a text sheet to decode these signals, it’s usually found behind the panel above the lid on this model. If not, you can download a copy from my website (link provided in the video description).

Performing Manual Tests: Inspecting the Motor and Belt

After reviewing the error codes, the next step is to perform manual tests to isolate the problem. Enter manual test mode by following the manual’s instructions and navigate to the heavy agitation test on page 10 of the service manual.

Before starting this test, you have to hit the start button to lock the lid. Then, remove the belt guard and tip the washer over to inspect the belt and motor directly.

When I powered the washer in heavy agitation mode, I immediately heard a humming sound from the motor, indicating it was receiving voltage. However, the motor wouldn’t start spinning until I gave it a gentle tap. (Note: please do not tap your motor—it’s just a diagnostic trick I used to test the motor’s responsiveness.)

This behavior usually points to a faulty run capacitor, which helps the motor start properly by providing an extra electrical boost.

Testing and Replacing the Run Capacitor

I proceeded to remove the wires connected to the run capacitor, which on this model is a 40 microfarad (uF) capacitor. Using a multimeter set to measure microfarads, I tested the capacitor and found no reading at all—indicating the capacitor was open and faulty.

Replacing the run capacitor was the trickiest part of this repair. The capacitor was tightly fitted without screws or easy-release clips, requiring some careful wiggling to remove it. If you have tips on easier removal methods, I’d love to hear them in the comments!

Once I had the new capacitor, I tested it again with my meter to confirm it read about 45 uF, a healthy value compared to the zero reading on the bad capacitor.

Final Testing and Repair Completion

After installing the new capacitor, I returned the washer to service mode and ran the heavy agitation test again. This time, the motor started immediately, and the washer agitated perfectly.

Before wrapping up, remember to reinstall the belt guard, clear all error codes, and return the service tech manual to its proper place.

Summary and Final Thoughts

If your Whirlpool stackable washer combo won’t start and shows blinking rinse lights, entering diagnostic mode to read air codes is the first step. These codes help pinpoint issues like the motor failing to reach the target RPM, which often stems from a bad run capacitor.

By following the diagnostic and manual test procedures, inspecting the motor and belt, and testing the run capacitor, you can identify and fix the problem yourself. This approach saves time and money compared to calling a technician right away.

Thanks for reading! I’m Dave from Apartment Maintenance Pro, and I hope this troubleshooting guide helps you get your Whirlpool washer combo back in action.